As would be expected from Latin America’s most cosmopolitan city, and a country where beef (or bife, as one of the juiciest cuts is called) is king, there are some excellent restaurants in Buenos Aires. Here is our pick (with thanks for Gabriel Jose’s help in sampling also), along with suggestions below for online food guides. If your stay in the capital is limited, and you only have time to visit one restaurant and like steaks, we would strongly recommend you select a parrilla, the Argentine specialty and probably the best way to enjoy a barbecue. For more nights, you will probably want to  vary your menu. Bon appetit!

       1) Cabaña Las Lilas 
       (A. M. de Justo 550, 2ª Piso – Tel 4315-1010)

        One of the best parrillas! The cuts of beef are so soft,
        they almost melt in your mouth!!

       2) Piegari
       (Posadas 1042, La Recova – Tel 4326-9430 / 9654)

       The best Italian restaurant. They serve an excellent
       array of pastas, usually homemade on the premises.

       3) La Bistecca
       (Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 18, Puerto Madero -
       Tel 4514-4996)

       In Puerto Madero, a chain restaurant with all you can
       eat menu offering high quality cuts of meat and a generous salad bar.

      4) La Brigada
      (Estados Unidos 465, Buenos Aires – Tel 4361-5557)

      The owner, Mr. Hugo Chavarrieta, personally takes
      care of the steps of cooking the meat, blood sausage,
      sweetbreads, etc. It is one of the best barbecues
      in the city.

     5) La Parolaccia
     (Riobamba 1046, Buenos Aires – Tel 4812-1053)

     They have an excellent variety of meals. Italian,
     Mediterranean, contemporary, fish & seafood dishes.

      6) La Cabrera 
      (José Antonio Cabrera 5099 - Tel 4831-7002)

       It is our suggested parrilla or steak restaurant.
       It is a bit noisy but that`s half the fun.

Of course there are plenty of other good restaurants to be found, and you may wish to locate something closer to your hotel. The concierge should be able to give some good suggestions, and here are a few online guides, usually in Spanish:-

http://restorando.com.ar/
http://www.viaresto.clarin.com/
http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/
http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/central-and-south-america/argentina/buenos-aires/restaurants.html
http://www.timeout.com/buenos-aires/search/tag/4256/restaurants-cafes

For longer stays seeing sights in and around the capital, see Buenos Aires tours.

Wine is synonymous with Argentina.  If yerba mate is the most typical drink of Argentina, certainly a robust Malbec is a close second.  Drawing on their strong European influence, Argentina began producing wine in the mid-16th century when the first vine cuttings were brought from Spain.  Since those humble beginnings, the wine industry has grown to be the fifth largest in the world and an integral part of Argentine cuisine.  Nothing beats a freshly grilled Argentinian steak washed down with one of Mendoza’s best reds.

Grape harvest in Mendoza

Argentina’s wine industry was long utilized mostly for domestic consumption (Argentinians drink a lot of wine – 45 liters a year per capita).  In the 1990s, exports began to rose as quality improved and Argentina is now the largest wine exporter in South America.  As a result, the wine growing province of Mendoza (60% of the country’s wine is grown here) has become one of the country’s top tourism destinations.  In the various regions known for their vitticulture, several varieties of wine are produced, the most abundant being Malbec, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay, Torrontes, and Bonarda.  The dry, high-altitude climate of the area keeps mold, insects and disease at bay, allowing for reduced pesticide use and even the production of organic wines.

Mendoza is by far the largest wine producer in Argentina.  Nestled in the foothills of the Andes, many vineyards are planted at 600-1,100 meters above sea level, so bring a jacket or even better an alpaca sweater.  Many of the 1,500 vineyards wineries in Argentina have wine tastings and vineyard tours available and prove an excellent excursion for the wine lover or a romantic getaway for couples.  Just make sure to leave enough room in your luggage for a few extra bottles on your way home!

As Argentinian wine has risen in popularity, various sources of information have arisen on the types, wineries, tours, and prizes dedicated to this important product.  For more information on Argentina’s wine industry and where you can find that perfect Cabernet or Malbec, visit www.winesofargentina.org and www.argentinawineguide.com.  Here you will find more in-depth information on the specific wine-producing regions, varieties of wine, tasting guides, and more – honestly more information than you probably need to go have an asado and a glass of Torrontes, but useful for wine buffs and Franzia drinkers alike.

Wine tasting at fireplace in Mendoza

Argentina is the land of tango, gauchos and vino.  A European atmosphere tucked away in the heart of Latin America combines both worlds into a unique place full of passion and culture.  Nowhere does wine better (though Chileans may argue that) and Mendoza is definitely the place to enjoy this national liquor of Argentina.

(ArgentinaDiscover also arranges trips to the vineyards in Mendoza. Click to see our tours in Argentina.)

When you think of Buenos Aires, many things come to mind; good wine, great steak, rich culture and of course, tango.  Tango is one of the most emblematic parts of Argentine culture and nowhere in the world will you find better representations than in Buenos Aires.  Argentine tango is both a dance and a musical genre that originated in the suburbs of Buenos Aires during the late 1800s and has since spread throughout the world.  Tango has no “basic step” but rather relies on improvisation with a focus on expressing the emotion of the music through your movements and your partner.  Originating in Argentina, it has spread across the world and developed into many different forms in the United States and Europe, though true tango, the real thing, is attributed solely to Argentinia and Uruguay.  Such is its importance to the culture that UNESCO has added Tango to the Intangible Cultural Heritage List.  It can be found in film and books and has influenced activities as varied as gymnastics, figure skating and synchronized swimming.  Tango is a worldwide phenomenon, but there is no place like Argentina to experience it authentically and immerse yourself into the tango culture.

Tango dance school in Buenos Aires

As Georges Clemenceau, twice French President in the early 1900s, memorably said:-
Tango : on ne voit que des figures qui s’ennuient et des derrières qui s’amusent.
(Tango: you only see faces that are bored and posteriors that are having fun)

Any trip to Buenos Aires would not be complete without visiting a tango club or taking lessons on the “forbidden dance” (it was previously banned by a Pope during the early 20th century).  So, where can you see, learn and experience the tango in Buenos Aires?

Buenos Aires International Tango Festival

Tango Festival

Held in August each year, there is no better way to fully experience the rich culture and history of Argentine tango.  Many of the events are free and you will find concerts, dancing displays, exhibitions, classes and even a short film festival.  Visit www.tangobuenosaires.gob.ar for information on the next festival.

Classes

Tango classes at a tangueria

Centro Cultural Torcuato Tasso, Tel. 4307 6506, www.tangotasso.com, Defensa 1575, San Telmo

La Catedral, Tel. 15 5325 1630, Sarmiento 4006, Almagro

Shows

Tango show (Esquina Carlos Gardel)

Bar Sur, Tel. 4362 6086, www.bar-sur.com.ar,  Estados Unidos 299, San Telmo

Piazzolla Tango, Tel. 0810 333 82646, www.piazzollatango.com, Galeria Guemes, Florida 165, Centro

El Viejo Almacen, Tel. 4307 7388, www.viejoalmacen.com,  Avenida Independencia 313, San Telmo

La Esquina de Carlos Gardel, Tel. 4867 6363, www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar,  Pasaje Carlos Gardel 3200, Abasto

Museums

Casa Carlos Gardel tango museum

Museo de Carlos Gardel, Tel. 4813 5906, Casa del Teatro, Avenida Santa Fe 1243, Barrio Norte

Museo Casa Carlos Gardel, Tel. 4516 0943, Jean Jaures 735, Abasto

Museo Mundial del Tango and Academia Nacional del Tango, Rivadavia 830, Centro

These are but a few of the many tango clubs, academies and museums you will find in Buenos Aires.  Think of them as a jumping off point to really submerse yourself in the passion and emotion that is tango in romantic Argentina! Note that  Argentina Discover can help organize any of this for you, and have a Buenos Aires tour which can be tailored with tango shows and so on as desired.

Head south from Buenos Aires and you’ll soon reach the large grasslands that cover more than 750,000 square kilometers: the Pampas. Famous for their fertile soil and temperate climate, the Pampas are named for the Quechua word meaning plain. Here you will encounter diverse and unique wildlife like rheas (large flightless birds, similar to an ostrich), pampas deer, pampas fox, and the Elegant Crested Tinamou. Yet these are not the only creatures unique and iconic of this incredible landscape. The Pampas are home to the famous gauchos of Argentina.

Gaucho with facon knife

Gauchos are the Argentine equivalent of the American cowboy and have earned their place in history for their rough riding style, unmatched horsemanship and tough-as-nails demeanor. The name gaucho is thought to originate in the Quechua word huachu, meaning orphan, or the Mapuche word cauchu, meaning vagabond. It was first coined around Argentina’s independence in 1816. However their name came about, they are now firmly rooted in the culture of Argentina’s rural areas, extending into Paraguay, Brazil and Uruguay.

Gaucho at turn of 20th century

While most gauchos have now gone the way of the American cowboy and all but disappeared, you can still find these rough and tumble characters roaming the pampas. Even though they may not always be dressed in their traditional garb, the gauchos remain forever as a cultural icon in Argentina. Their rich history has captured the imagination of thousands around the world, so as you travel through the pampas keep an eye out for a rough cowboy chasing a herd of wild cattle through the plains.

Jorge Luis Borges

I fear we are invading the house of Borges when we visit Argentina. To exorcise that risk – and of course to show respect – we called this blog the ‘House of Borges’. Is this sufficient exorcism though? For Jorge Luis Borges, the blind Argentine writer who died 25 yeara ago at the age of 87, continues to loom larger than life and his shadow and thoughts have in many ways influenced the way the world sees Argentina – and how Argentinians see themselves.

Borges was a fascinating and very unusual character, notoriously hard to pigeon-hole for he eschewed fashion in any form, mental or physical. From his early years he knew his calling was literature, and never deviated from this. He confirmed this by saying “if I were asked to name the chief event in my life, I should say my father’s library.” Blindness was common in his family tree, and accordingly his sight started failing from the age of 30, finally disappearing completely over the course of the next 30 years.

Borges’s own library was surprisingly small, and excluded any of the books he wrote. One bemused postman, delivering a handsomely-bound and printed deluxe version of one his book from an Italian publisher, was astounded to hear Borges pronounce the now-opened package a box of chocolates and be presented with it.

Borges with Beppo the cat

Borges never married, living simply with his mother and cat, called Beppo. This odd name sounded like one of the Marx Brothers, already an odd choice. But further investigation by the Latin Discover super-sleuths uncovered the even odder fact that Beppo was part of the Superman comic series. He was a monkey from Krypton that decided to follow the baby boy to his earth dwelling with the Kents, where he proceeded to play havoc until the fright of fireworks sent him shooting back to the stars. On this basis the author of this questionable blog article will be naming our next dog/cat/goldfish Beppo, without really knowing if we are paying tribute to Borges or to a crazy space monkey.

Borges was a reasonably prolific writer, but his unique speciality was the ultra-concise essay or short story, where each word is carefully chosen and honed to poetry, and ideas sparkle like diamonds. He plays with history, philosophy, literature and language, often taking an idea to its quite illogical conclusion, and sprinkles the text with frequently false references and quotes.

Ficciones by Borges

For anybody who wants an introduction, I would recommend one of his earliest works, Ficciones (“Fictions” in English), widely translated into many languages. This contains some of his most dazzling inventions: Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius, The Circular Ruins, The Library of Babel, and The Babylon Lottery. This style of writing is unique, and – in the same way Wagner did for musicians – has influenced writers around the world. And, as Borges famously said in 1952, “Every writer creates his own precursors“, so re-writing how the past is viewed. For now, quite unbeknownst to them, Plato, Schopenhauer, Kafka and others are considered his precursors.

For many years he was a common sight in the streets of Buenos Aires, strolling along with walking stick and chatting to whoever was accompanying him. He enjoyed travelling, but in a different way to almost everybody else. Partly because he was nearly blind. But also because for him it was a literary event – as Alberto Manguel describes:-

For a man who loved to travel.., he was singularly uninterested in the physical world except as representations of his readings. The sand of the Sahara or the water of the Nile,…the ruins of Greece and Rome, all of which he touched with delight and awe, simply confirmed the memory of a page in the Arabian Nights or the Bible, of Njals Saga or of Homer and Virgil.

His love of encyclopaedias also gave witness to his form of travelling. Again as Alberto Mangel comments, Borges would say “I like to pretend I am not blind and I lust after books like a man who can see. I’m greedy for new encyclopaedias. I imagine I can follow the course of rivers on their maps and find wonderful things in the many entries“.  In fact his preferred way of reading these massive tomes was to open a page at random and read the entries and articles that came to his eyes – a form of discovery quite comparable to traveling.

Labyrinth? (Paul Klee)

Ancient Moche mirror

His great fears, and as a result the incidental elements in many of his works, are of mirrors and labyrinths. The latter, discovered as a child, led to nightmares of being in a house without doors and a monster at the centre, whilst he was terrified of finding a mirror that either failed to reflect his face at all or reflected another.  He was always fascinated by tigers, remarking once “What a pity not to have been born a tiger“.

He was patriotically emotional about Argentina,  writing about gauchos and the tango especially. He would sing or hum tangos and milongas. He could get quite teary-eyed looking at, for example, the pampas, in the same way he said as the sea would affect the English, and would mutter “Carajo, la patria” (Dammit, my country).  But he could be sharp and cruel about his fellow countrymen, as in his essay ‘Annotation to the 23rd August 1944′ in the book ‘Otras Inquisiciones’ (Other Inquisitions) where he seeks to understand the joy felt by the Argentinean people at the liberation of Paris given their previous pro-Nazi sentiments. To translate badly:-

From the start I knew it was useless to question them (the thousands of people of Buenos Aires who manifested their joy on the streets). These chameleons, through the strength of exercising their incoherence, had lost all notion of self-justification: they venerate the German race, but abominate the ‘saxon’ America; they condemn the articles of Versailles, but applaud the prodigies of the Blitzkrieg; they are anti-semitic, but profess the religion of Hebrew origin; they bless the submarine war, but vigorously reprove British piracies; they denounce imperialism, but vindicate and promote the thesis of living space; they idolise San Martin, but opine that the independence of America was an error; they apply to the acts of England the canon of Jesus, but to those of Germany that of Zarathustra……I also reflected that uncertainty was better that having a dialogue with these fellow countrymen of chaos, to whom the infinite repetition of the interesting formula “soy argentino” (I am Argentine) exempts them from honour and pity.”

With Borges (Alberto Manguel)

Several of these anecdotes can be found in the excellent book “With Borges”  by Alberto Manguel. Manguel, when a 16 year-old working in a bookshop of Buenos Aires, was asked by Borges if he was willing to read for him given his poor sight. Manguel, one of a considerable number who read for Borges, did so for 4 years and the book records the experience. It is written beautifully and paints a fascinating portrait of Borges in a sensitive fashion. For anybody interested in learning more about him, this is highly recommended.

One of these anecdotes relates that in the last months of his life he was invited to the estancia of a rich Argentine who promised a surprise. He was left sitting on a bench outside, and suddenly felt a warm body alongside and large paws on his shoulders.  Borges was unafraid, only the pet tiger’s breath unsettled him slightly.

Argentine stamp of Borges "I, who imagined paradise in the form of a library"

Anybody visiting Buenos Aires will realize how remote the city is – even in the days of fast international flights one feels far away from anything. For many years the city felt unreal – Borges reported that in the 1920s, when Anatole France (a French poet and novelist) visited Buenos Aires, the city suddenly felt more real because Anatole France recognised that it existed. Borges’ works, many of which have constructed a different form of reality located in the city, have achieved the same international  ‘recognition’ of the existence of Buenos Aires. But the city is famous for its complexes, so when you travel there, you too are contributing measurably to the city’s belief in its existence. So don’t rush through on your way south - make sure you spend time comforting the patient on the couch in Borges’ absence!

Gaucho takes mate in the pampa

Throughout the diverse regions of Argentina, there is one common ingredient whether you’re traipsing the pampas, skiing through the Andes, or heading to a tango lesson in Buenos Aires: yerba mate.  This ubiquitous drink can be seen in all levels of society and all areas of the country, and is rooted deep in the history and culture.  So what is it?

Typical mate gourd

Yerba mate, or often just called mate, is a tea made from the mate plant (Ilex paraguariensis), that traces its roots to the indigenous Guarani of southern Brazil.  When European settlers arrived in South America and discovered the drink, its consumption rapidly grew and can now be seen in Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay and even Chile.  However, nowhere else is it such a classic example of culture as in Argentina.

mate plant (Ilex paraguariensis)

Its flavor is often described as bitter and is very strong and herbal, similar to a very flavorful natural green tea.  It is definitely not for everyone and is one of those things that individuals either hate or absolutely love. We suggest you try it in the typical fashion and try to partake in the very ritualistic, social sharing of mate with local Argentinians who will not only prepare the best brew but also guide you through the process.  You’re likely not only to come out with a distinct opinion of mate, but some new friends as well!   Be careful to follow the actions of those around you, as you’ll notice that the host will prepare the mate and take charge of refills as well.  The drink is then passed around from person to person in a clockwise order before being handed back to the brewer to be refilled.  Once you’ve had your fill, be sure to say gracias to the host not only to be polite, but also to signal that you don’t want any more.

Packets of yerba mate

Wherever you go in Argentina, you’re likely to see people with their customary guampa and bombilla, the traditional gourd and metal straw specifically designed for the yerba mate drink.  They come in all shapes and sizes, but true mate aficionados don’t leave home without their personal guampa!

In addition to its cultural value, mate has many health benefits and has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimutagenic and lipid-lowering properties.  No wonder Argentinians seem to be so healthy and vibrant – always ready for the next tango session.  So grab your guampa, find some new friends and get ready to discover Argentina! And whatever kind of Peru tour you do, you chose whether or not to try mate – but give it a go!

Latin America is a fascinating blend of cultures, personalities, history, languages and geographic extremes. Despite an apparently uniform colonial history split between two competing Iberian powers, Spain and Portugal, each of the 20 countries that make up Latin America has their own quite distinct flavour and story to tell. This is what makes the region endlessly exciting to visit.

But if there were to be a competition amongst these countries to see which has the richest and most varied story to tell, our bet would be on Argentina. This country has been on a roller coaster almost since birth, no sooner reaching an apparent crest than invisible forces are already plotting a sudden stomach-gripping descent. How can this be?

Province of Rio De La Plata by Willem Janszoon Blaeu, 1642

We are pleased to reveal the answer to a question that has bewildered even the brightest llamas. Economists have something called the ‘Turnpike theory’ where a country decides to head onto a turnpike (express way) to accelerate growth, usually deliberately sacrificing something in the process. Well, in-depth investigation by Latin Discover, mainly from a bar in Palermo, proves without doubt that Argentina headed onto the turnpike the moment the country became the Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata in 1776. This marvellous name, ‘ViceRoyalty of the River of Silver’, was the start of the turn away from staid reality and onto a roller coaster of fantasy, when everything became larger than life and nothing henceforth was normal. Not even the Indians, the so-called ‘Patagones’, were of a normal size.

British General Beresford surrenders, 1806

Since then the nation fought off two bungled British attempts at invasion, a civil war, a French blockade from 1838 to 1840, and an Anglo-French blockade from 1845 to 1850 amongst many other events, to become one of the ten richest countries worldwide at the turn of last century thanks to the burgeoning meat industry and the early adoption of refrigeration. It was at this time that the phrase “Rich as an Argentine” was coined in Paris, as the country’s elite travelled to European capitals for shopping sprees of clothing, fabrics and antiques, and Buenos Aires was converted into an attractive version of Paris. This was the period when ground could hardly be seen from the top of the roller coaster.

Unfortunately nothing lasts. This century ushered in Peronism, Eva Peron, military coups, los desaparecidos, the Falklands (famously dismissed by Borges as “… a fight between two bald men over a comb”), economic defaults and high inflation. But against this backdrop the country’s incredible literary, musical and cultural diversity flourished. And yet nothing was it should be. Even the tango, a pure Argentine invention, was shunned by Buenos Aires and only in Paris was it acclaimed as the new hot fashion and exported everywhere as such, including back to Argentina.

The element of fantasy and uniqueness is apparent in every direction. Darwin reported the unusual way the country’s armies would elect their general:-

“A troop of unbroken horses being driven into a corral, were let out through a gateway, above which was a cross-bar: it was agreed whoever should drop from the bar on one of these wild animals, as it rushed out, and should be able, without saddle or bridle, not only to ride it, but also to bring it back to the door of the corral, should be their general. The person who succeeded was accordingly elected; and doubtless made a fit general for such an army.” (Voyage of the Beagle, Chapter IV)

Playing the game of pato

Further exclusive Nobel-deserving investigation by the intrepid Latin Discover journalists, this time from a bar in La Recoleta, has uncovered the surprising fact that Argentina’s national sport is not soccer, as would have been expected worldwide, but ‘pato’, a game involving riders on horses and a duck in a cage. Supposedly a cross between polo and basketball, the rules had to be modified over the years due to excessive cruelty. Not just to the duck, but also to the gaucho riders whose tempers tended to flare and cause many fatalities before and after the game with knife fights. To such an extent that a Catholic priest in 1796 forbade a Christian burial to pato players who died this way. Banned by the government for much of the 19th century, it is now reckoned that only 10% of Argentines have ever seen a live game of pato. What moral should we draw from this?

It is of interest that other Latins have always held Argentines to be a different species. Jokes abound about the Argentine ego: the following have been heard frequently outside Argentina and yet are widely vaunted in the country itself:-

¿Cuál es la mejor manera de hacer dinero? Comprar argentinos por lo que son, y venderlos por lo que se creen que son.
(What is the best way to make money? Buy an Argentine for what he’s worth, and sell him for what he thinks he’s worth).

Definición de Diego Maradona, según los argentinos: “Mejor jugador del mundo, y uno de los mejores de la Argentina”.
(Definition of Diego Maradona, according to Argentines: “Best player worldwide, and one of the best in Argentina.”)

And yet, when you travel around the country, it is simply amazing how friendly everybody is. And that, along with its incredible history, culture, people, and of course diversity of natural scenery, is what makes Argentina such a wonderful place to visit. Whatever you do though, don’t tell that to the Argentines, it’ll just go to their head. But judging by another joke, this could be too late:-

¿Qué país está más cerca del cielo? Uruguay, que está al lado de Argentina.
(Which country is closest to heaven? Uruguay, which is alongside Argentina.)