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San Salvador de Jujuy

introduction | tucuman | salta | jujuy | catamarca

This is the capital of the province of Jujuy. It was named like this after Xuxuyoc, an Inca officer that was supposed to live here. The city is located 1,260 meters (4,200 feet) above sea level and 1,660 km (1,038 miles) from Buenos Aires, on the northern extreme of a large valley at the foothill of the Sierras de Zapla. The city, built on a rugged terrain and crossed by the Xibi and Grande rivers, keeps only a few colonial buildings. Those that are worth a visit are the Cathedral, the Cabildo and Police History Museum, the Government House, San Francisco Church and Santa Barbara Chape.

22 km (14 miles) north the hot springs called Termas de Reyes, are located at a height of 1,800 meters (5,994 feet) above sea level. The therapeutic features of the waters are known from immemorial times; the strongly mineralized waters flow at temperatures that range from 52° to 58º C. From there, a mountain road leads to Lagunas de Yala, 26 km (16 miles) from Jujuy. These are a set of lagoons surrounded by dense alder woods, which belong to the Provincial Reserve of Yala Ground. The place is ideal for camping and hiking.

Some 39 km (24 miles) north from San Salvador de Jujuy, the Humahuaca Gorge appears as a deep fissure in the Altiplano, caused by the eroding action of the Río Grande. The gorge runs parallel to the river course and cradles several hamlets, still inhabited by Inca descendants. They still continue to practice their ancestors' rites including the cult to Pachamama (Mother Earth). To honor her they build apachetas, small pyramids of stones, where they make their offerings of cigarettes, alcohol and coca leaves. Another important popular festivity is the Carnival, celebrated in different ways in many of the surrounding towns.

Tumbaya has one of the oldest churches of the gorge, at a foothill. The typically colonial building, devoted to Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de Tumbaya, dates back to the XIX century and was declared National Historic Monument. Another town Purmamarca, situated only 4 km (2,5 miles) away from the main route, is surrounded by fertile lands even if its name suggests the opposite: Purmamarca means 'barren land' in Quechua. It has the layout that is typical of the Spanish settlements with the church in front of the main square. Also in front of the square is the Cabildo, a small colonial style building, which was used as prison and police station in the past. Nowadays it houses an artisans' market that spreads also over the square and the surrounding shops, bestowing their colors to the town. However, the most important attraction in Purmamarca is, undoubtedly, the Seven-Colored Hill. The colored slopes are the result of layers of mineral sediments dating back to the Mesozoic (geological period that finished 65 million years ago, when dinosaurs disappeared) and the Tertiary (period when the Andes were formed).


Tilcara, located 84 km (52 miles) from San Salvador de Jujuy, at an altitude of 2,460 m (8,200 feet) above sea level, is another typical village, founded around the year 1600. It is well known for the fortress, called "Pucará de Tilcara", strategically settled on a near hill. Pucará means stronghold in Quechua. The presence of the coyas (descendants of the Incas) provides a colorful aspect to the streets of the village. The ruins of the ancient site, partially rebuilt, can be visited. It was the first of four fortified settlements built by the primitive inhabitants of the Humahuaca Gorge by the course of the river. On the east side of the hill, there is a necropolis with a truncated pyramid-shaped monument on top. The mortal remains of two famous archaeologists that worked on the reconstruction of this site are buried there. At the foot of the Pucará Hill, there is a Botanical Garden where numerous typical plants of the area grow. The Provincial Archaeological Museum, opposite to the main square, which owns varied items of pre-Columbian art, coming from what is nowadays territory of Argentina, Perú, Bolivia and Chile. From here it is possible to walk to Garganta del Diablo, a deep gap located 7 km (4 miles) from the beginning of the Huasamayo River, from where there is a wonderful view of the Humahuaca Gorge.

Further on, Uquía, boasts one of the oldest temples in the area: an old colonial style church. There are also many archaeological sites in the area including Peñas Blancas and the Pucará de Calete. The road finally leads to Humahuaca, located at an altitude of 2,945 meters (9,806 feet) above sea level on the right bank of the Río Grande, 126 km (78 miles) from the capital of the province and 1,833 km (1,146 miles) from Buenos Aires. It was an old settlement of the Omaguaca aborigines. Its Spanish origins date back to the beginning of the XVII century. It small adobe houses and narrow cobble-stoned streets make it a typical town of the Puna. Around the main square, all the most important constructions gather: the Town Hall (former Cabildo), the Cathedral and the Monument to the Independence Wars. Other places that worth a visit are the Ramoneda Museum and the Regional and Folk Museum, which show aspects of the life and customs of the local inhabitants. Next to the railway station, there is a picturesque market of regional products.

77 Km (48 miles) northeast from Humahuaca, the town of Iruya (Province of Salta), is cradled among mountains, recalling another time. Its inhabitants, mostly reticent to face outsiders, still commercialize their products by bartering with the neighbors and refuse any progress provided by civilization. Iruya offers one of the most beautiful and untouched images in the Argentine Northwest.

Just a few travelers dare to go further north, though the experience of piercing the Puna may become indelible. The Puna is an arid plateau, that stretches at an altitude that ranges from 2,500 to 4,500 meters (8,325 to 14,985 feet) above sea level, where the infinitude of the vast landscape matches with the pristine sky and the purest air in the world, where the sun shines year-round and the slow and quite pace of people's lives seem to elapse unnoticed. A detour to the west, from Abra Pampa, leads to the Monumento Natural Laguna de los Pozuelos, where one can see huge flocks of pick Andean flamingos and herds of vicuñas peacefully grazing, alien to any threat in this inaccessible land.

Only 100 km (63 miles) away from San Salvador de Jujuy, the Parque Nacional Calilegua, is the most visited of all the national parks in the Northwest. It was created to protect an ecosystem of yunga (or Tucuman Jungle). It has an impressive biodiversity, including several fauna species such as the wild boar and the jaguar.

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