The city of San Miguel de Tucumán
is the capital of the province. It is an active commercial and industrial
center, situated 1,312 km (820 miles) away from Buenos Aires. It
has an important National University and an intense nightlife. In
the downtown area, the so-called 'Casa de Tucumán'
(Tucumán Household) is worth a visit. It was the setting
for the General Congress that declared the National Independence
on July 9th 1816. Every night a light and sound show is offered.
It explains the most important events related to this important
stage of the Argentine history that took place within the house.
Some other important buildings stand out such as:
the Cathedral of San Francisco, opposite to Plaza
Independencia (Independence Square); the Iglesia de la Merced
(Church of the Mercy) and Bishop Colombres' House,
where there is a grinding mill and cauldrons that are relics of
the first sugar mill that worked in the area at the beginning of
the XIX century. In spite of its colonial heritage, San Miguel de
Tucumán is a modern city, which leads a Buenos Aires-like
lifestyle, quite different to those of the other cities of the Northwest.
Villa Nogués, 28 km (17
miles) away from the city, is a charming village settled on the
slope of San Javier Hill. Temperature here is about 10º C lower
than in the city, that's why this village, as well as San Javier,
has been chosen by many well-off families of the city to settle
their summer residences. The place is a kind of natural balcony
overlooking an area of sugar mills, sugar cane plantations and the
city, with its beautiful surroundings.
Leaving Tucumán, northbound, the winding
road goes along the Quebrada de los Sosa(Sosas'
River Gorge), where the river runs deep bellow. It is really outstanding
its dense tropical forest, quite weird at this latitude. Some kilometers
after the gorge has been left beyond, the village of Tafí
del Valle appears in the middle of a green transversal
valley that spreads at 2,000 m (6,660 feet) above sea level, between
the Aconquija Range to the south and the Calchaquí Mounts
to the north. The village, located only 107 km (67 miles) from Tucumán,
has became a place cherished by wealthy families to built their
country houses, to get away from town during the hot days of summer
season.
Though, before reaching the village, the Parque
Los Menhires(Dolmens Park) at El Mollar is worth a visit.
The park gathers dozens of monolithic stone sculptures, up to 3-meter
high, which have been found there and in other spots in the Northwest.
Also, before reaching Tafí del Valle, the huge man-made lake
of La Angostura Dam is glimpsed from the road.
The village offers good tourist infrastructure so it might be nice
to spend a night there.
Going on northward, the road climbs up to its highest
at Abra del Infiernillo, 3,000 m (9,990 feet) above
sea level. At this point, the landscape changes dramatically once
more, the green valleys and curved fertile hills are left beyond
to be suddenly submersed in a highland desert. The next town is
Amaicha del Valle, where it is possible to visit
the Pachamama Museum (Museum of the Mother Earth),
which exhibits aborigine assets. At this spot, the road offers two
alternatives: to continue northbound up to Quilmes Ruins or to travel
westbound towards the tiny village of Santa María, in the
province of Catamarca.
Santa María, 180 km (113
miles) from Tucumán, was originally a Franciscan Mission
within an area densely populated by aborigines. It therefore constitutes
a rich archaeological site, where a certain style of pottery was
found and became classified as the Santa María Culture, one
of the main aboriginal cultures identified in the country. In its
main square, there is an archaeological museum where some remains
found in the area are exhibited. Numerous interesting places can
be visited from there such as: the Burnt Fort, Ampajango and its
petrogliphs (20 km/12 miles away), Loma Rica (with a 3-hour tour)
and Cerro Pintado (8 km/5 miles away). From Santa María,
it is possible to continue through the Calchaquí
Valleys up to Cafayate, or towards the northwest to Antofagasta
de la Sierra, in the Province of Catamarca.
Continuing along the Calchaquí Valleys,
the road leads to the Quilmes Ruins, an old aborigine settlement
that belonged to the Quilmes aborigines. The complex, which is a
masterpiece of urban and defensive layout, lies on the eastern side
of the Sierras de Quilmes, where the remains of the central area
spread in the way of a natural amphitheatre. The central citadel
is protected by fortresses on both sides. The walls were about 2
to 3 meter thick, the houses were roofed with cactus stems and branches
plastered with mud. These ruins go on for several kilometers further
to the southeast but numerous vestiges have not been found yet.
It is thought that Quilmes, in the old days, housed up to 2,500
aborigine inhabitants, all of which were deported to Buenos Aires
by the Spaniards to the place that nowadays holds their name, in
the province of Buenos Aires, in a desperate attempt to beat these
indomitable people who struggled against white men domination.
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