Located by the Rio de la Plata, the widest estuary in the world, Buenos Aires is the capital of tango and soccer, of the gaucho and the asado (Argentine-style barbecue). It offers its visitors assorted alternatives to satisfy all wishes. In the "city that never sleeps", there is time and space for everyone.
Buenos Aires is one of the most populated cities in the world, counting a total of thirteen million inhabitants in both the city and its suburbs, surprisingly large in a country with such a reduced population. It is a modern and dynamic city that still keeps some of its old traditions. It is known as the most cosmopolitan city in South America what is clearly apparent in the heterogeneity of its people (called "porteños" -inhabitants of the port-), their customs, and its architecture.

Each corner in the city presents quite a diverse aspect, easily changing as the different districts are visited. To catch the spirit of the city, it is necessary to walk around: to stroll along the streets downtown, to do some shopping in its elegant boutiques, to have a coffee in a sidewalk café or to visit the residential neighborhoods, where old buildings alternate with modern crystal skyscrapers. It is also interesting to underline the enormous quantity and variety of restaurants offering Argentine food, as well as excellent international cuisine. Another unmistakable example of its assorted ethnical composition.

A visit to this city should start at Plaza de Mayo (May Square), , where the second and definitive foundation of Buenos Aires, by Juan de Garay, took place, in 1580. Here, the Plaza de Armas was established, surrounded by the main buildings of the city according to the urban layout provided by the "Indian Laws" (old Spanish legislation during colonial times): the Cabildo (former Town Hall), the church and the fort. Even if new buildings have been built over the ruins of the original ones, the square keeps its colonial structure. Plaza de Mayo is, even nowadays, the center of the most important political activities and public demonstrations.

On the opposite end stands the Government House, also known as Pink House because of its characteristic color, which is the headquarters of the National Executive Power. It is located in the same plot where the old Fort and Viceroys' House stood. It houses a museum in its underground galleries which keeps numerous objects belonging to important characters of the Argentine history. The Cabildo situated on the opposite end of the square dates back to the colonial period. Witness to the debates and struggles in pursue of independence at the beginning of the XIX century, the building was the seat of the first Town Hall and it still keeps its colonial architectural features in spite of several overhauls. It was declared National Historic Monument in 1933 and it houses a Historic Museum. Opposite the Cabildo, across Avenida de Mayo stands the French style building that houses the Town Hall. Also facing the square stands the Metropolitan Cathedral, the most important temple of the Catholic Church, official religion of the country. Its facade shows Neoclassical influences. This cathedral houses the mausoleum of General San Martín, the liberator of Argentina, Chile and Peru.

A few meters from Plaza de Mayo stands the so-called Manzana de las Luces ('The Enlightenment Block'), the oldest complex of colonial buildings in the city, including the San Ignacio de Loyola Church and the Colegio Nacional Buenos Aires (Buenos Aires National College), both founded in 1710 by the Jesuit Priests. Beneath these buildings, there is a network of underground tunnels built in the XVIII century, that links the complex to other old historical buildings situated nearby. Some sections of the tunnels can be visited. A few meters away stands the City Museum, which exhibits an important collection of traditional items that belonged to the early inhabitants of the city.

Every street and avenue in Buenos Aires has special features that give the city a unique touch. A most interesting example is the Avenida de Mayo (May Avenue). Its layout was projected and carried out in 1883 following a Baroque urban conception. It was inaugurated in 1894 on an anniversary of the Declaration of the Argentine Independence. In the buildings, French features prevail, from Louis XIII to Art Nouveau architectural styles, and there are some Italian-style constructions too. At the time of its construction, the avenue was considered the city main street, a gathering of the most important hotels, shops, theatres and sidewalk cafés. Probably the most esteemed of these sidewalk cafes is Café Tortoni which continues to delight its visitors. On the other extreme of this avenue stands the National Congress Building, seat of the Legislature, which, with its imposing facade of Greek-Roman features, the numerous masterpieces, its important library, and its huge central cupola, is considered one of the most sumptuous parliamentary buildings in South America.

The Judiciary has also its seat in a very beautiful building, the Palacio de Tribunales (Courts House), built in Neoclassical style with Roman and Greek influences with columns and bronze sculptures made by Argentine artists. It is located opposite Plaza Lavalle, in front of which also stands the Colón Theatre, which is one of the four most important opera houses in the world due to its perfect acoustics which attracts the most famous international lyric singers, orchestras and ballet dancers. The architecture of the building melds the general features of the Italian Renaissance with French ornamental details. Beauty and magnificence appear in every corner of its ample and luxurious rooms, in the marble of different colors and in the huge 600-lamp chandelier that occupies the center of the dome painted by Raúl Soldi, internationally renowned Argentine artist. The main room can seat up to 2,500 people in the stalls, boxes and the four circular levels (gods, upper gallery, gallery and peanut gallery). The backstage of the theatre, its precious wardrobe and the scenography can be visited. Guided tours in Spanish and English are available Mondays thru Saturdays.

A few meters away, on the northwest extreme of Plaza Lavalle stands the Teatro Nacional Cervantes whose architecture exhibits a rich Spanish Plateresque style. Its outer aspect is a slightly adapted reproduction of the University of Alcalá de Henares, with ornaments from the different Spanish regions.

A few meters away, appears 9 de Julio Avenue, crossing the city from north to south. Its layout and construction was carried out at the beginning of the XX century, with eight lanes separated by small squares ornamented with fountains and sculptures, named after the Argentine provinces. It was considered, by the time of its construction, the widest avenue in South America. The most important crossroad is that of this avenue with Corrientes Avenue and Diagonal Norte, where is situated the Plaza de La República, a traditional meeting point for celebrations. The Obelisk, a symbol of the city, stands in the middle of the square. This plain and simple 67-meter (225 feet) high column was erected to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the first foundation of Buenos Aires, on the same site where the old San Nicolas de Bari Church stood. In one of its towers the national flag was hoisted for first time.

Corrientes Avenue, probably one of the main hubs in the city, displays a large quantity of banks and financial offices and commercial firms on the east side, and theatres, cinemas, restaurants, bookshops and cafés (most open 24-hours) on the west side. Among the numerous recreational places, two stand out: the shopping mall, theater and cultural center Paseo La Plaza and the Centro Cultural Teatro General San Martín (theater and cultural center), where free shows and exhibitions are often held.

In downtown Buenos Aires there are two important pedestrian streets: Lavalle and Florida. The latter with its magazine stalls, its flower kiosks and pedestrians that stop to watch the street artists, is not the proper place for anyone who is in a hurry. And walking along Florida Street makes it possible to appreciate some elegant boutiques, important bookshops and shopping malls, such as the Galerías Pacífico, which occupies the Italian Novecento style building where the Pacific Railway Company had its headquarters. It was declared National Historic Monument due to its architectural value and the masterpieces made by great artists of the Argentine painting.

Another characteristic shopping district is Santa Fe Avenue, where boutiques and shops alternate with bars and restaurants. It ends in the district of Retiro, at Plaza San Martín, one of the most tree-filled green spaces in the city. Some of the most important surrounding buildings are: the Palacio Paz (Paz family's palace) which houses the Army Club and the Museum of Weapons; Kavanagh Building, which was the highest one in the city when it was constructed; the Plaza Hotel, the first deluxe hotel in Buenos Aires; and the beautiful church Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento.

In ancient times, the commercial center of the city was the district of San Telmo, named like this after the sailors' patron St. Pedro Telmo. This is the oldest neighborhood of Buenos Aires and, according to some historians, it was the place Pedro de Mendoza chose for the first settlement in 1536, exactly in the spot where a statue built to honor him stands in Parque Lezama. On the highest part of this park stands the Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum) whose assets includes valuable documents related to Argentine historical events including the discovery and conquest, the Jesuit missions, the viceroyalties, the English invasions, the emancipation, the independence battles, the period of national organization, the democratic presidencies and the dictatorial governments.

Up to the XIX century, San Telmo's population was made up by prestigious families, until 1871, when a serious epidemic of yellow fever prompted most of its inhabitants to move to the northern quarters. The large residences, abandoned by its former wealthy owners, where occupied by the newly arrived immigrants. Hence, the first conventillos appeared; the old properties where several families lived together. The neighborhood still preserves good part of its old architectural heritage with its narrow sidewalks, its cobblestone streets and its old colonial houses. Famous worldwide for its antique shops, this is the place where many artists have their ateliers. Every Sunday a flea market is organized around Plaza Dorrego where craftsmen, antique dealers, musicians, tango dancers, and many other artists gather from 10.00 in the morning until sunset.

By night, San Telmo is also an active area. The most important tango clubs frequented by local inhabitants are located here. Along with La Boca, San Telmo was the cradle of Tango, the popular Argentine music, which in spite of its humble origins in the port suburbs of Buenos Aires, has become to be world renown. Its origins are traced back to 1880 and its birthplace were the slums, inhabited by Italian and Spanish immigrants, black people and "gauchos". From this racial mix appeared the compadritos (small-time hoods) who tried to reflect in their music, their lyrics and their dance their typical life style: the cuchilleros (knife fighters) duel characteristic of their social ambient and their courtship to get the desired woman. Its music appears as a mix of Cuban and Spanish rhythms, some polka and, as some people say, also a little bit of African music. Their lyrics, difficult to understand and impossible to translate, are deeply poetic and tell stories about the city, its history and its people.

Despite its humble and dubious origins, in the 20's tango left the brothels and the underworld to reach the high-class ballrooms, but first it had had to travel to Paris to come back triumphant. A typical characteristic of a prejudiced society that has always looked at Europe for its models. The thing is that tango finally became accepted as a complete cultural expression, a gathering of myths, values, traditions and aspirations. For some people just representative of a past epoch, in fact, tango is everywhere in the city; it is felt in city air, as humidity. Its maximum expression was Carlos Gardel, who took it all over the world with his songs and films in the '20s and '30s. There are several clubs and restaurants that offer excellent tango shows featuring first level musicians, dancers and singers. It is also possible to take tango lessons and dance with professional dancers in genuinely popular milongas (tango night-clubs) spread in different areas in the city.

By the side of Riachuelo, stands the neighborhood of La Boca, with its famous alley Caminito, whose architectonic characteristics and customs reflect the influence of the European citizens that came to this shores in the last years of the XIX century, especially Genoese sailors that influenced not only the architecture with its typical multicolored tin houses, but also the cuisine of the typical 'cantinas'. Several museums enlighten the history of the district, including Argentine Artists' Fine Arts Museum of La Boca with works by the famous artist Benito Quinquela Martin and other Argentine figurative artists. In the same building, busts, old Italian puppets and sculptures by Argentine artists are exhibited. On the upper floors, you can visit the old atelier and rooms that belonged to Quinquela Martin, where personal objects and thirty large oil paintings of the port and the district are kept.

Another point of interest is the Boca Juniors Football Club, known as "The Bombonera". Its team is the most popular football team in Argentina and indeed, one of the best known worldwide. A visit to the Museo de la Pasión Boquense (Museum of Boca Junior Fans' Passion), situated within the stadium premises, allows the visitor to get in touch with the team's history and its most important players.

In old times, the Port of Buenos Aires held 70 % of the international commerce. The whole national production, which arrived in Buenos Aires by the well-planned railway net, built in the XIX century by English investors, was shipped from here. There are four important ports in the city: Riachuelo (which includes La Boca and Barracas), Dock Sud, Puerto Madero (built in 1887) and Puerto Nuevo (built in 1914). The latter is the one operating at present for goods imports and exports.

At the beginning of the '90, important renovations were planned in order to recover the abandoned area of Puerto Madero. New streets were outlined, and the old warehouses refurbished as new blocks of flats, offices, smart restaurants, a few first level shops, and cinemas. As from its renovation the area has turned to be a "must" for visitors and locals. Sarmiento Frigate, the old Argentine Navy training ship turned into a Museum, is moored at dock 3.

Southwards is situated the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (Southern Riverside Ecological Reserve). A section of the riverbank started to be dried and filled in 1978 following a technique similar to the Dutch polders. From the very beginning the new ponds with floating vegetation and high pastures attracted bird watchers and lovers of nature, who visited the area regularly, because of its great diversity of bird species. Open daily. Guided visits available.

Northward, in the area of Puerto Nuevo, in Dársena Norte (Northern Dock), stands The Immigrant Museum, which occupies the building of the old Hotel of Immigrants. The old hotel provided lodging to lots of the immigrants who arrived in Argentina between 1880 and 1910.

Leaving the port behind, we get to Retiro area where the Central Railway Station is situated. The complex was inaugurated in 1915 and shows many traits typical of the English engineering of the turn of the century. It is the central station for Mitre, Belgrano and San Martin railways that depart from there towards the north and west of the country. The building of Mitre Railway Station houses the Railway Museum with objects related to the history of the national railway network of the XIX and XX century. Facing the train stations is Plaza de la Fuerza Aérea Argentina (Air Force Square), with its clock tower, formerly called Square of the Englishmen, till the Falkands (Malvinas) war in 1982. A few blocks away from here stands the Museum of Spanish-American Art Isaac Fernández Blanco, an old neocolonial style house where an interesting collection of colonial artworks and silver objects are exhibited.

Further north appears the posh quarter of La Recoleta, which combines the green of its wide squares with its traditional artistic and cultural heritage. It is the most sophisticated district in the city, which gathers some of the best restaurants, coffee shops, discos and boutiques. Thereby, the Recoleta Cemetery surprises visitors because of its central uptown location, its architectural diversity and wealth and the quantity of important characters of the Argentine history and culture buried there; among them, Eva Perón. The Centro Cultural Recoleta' (Recoleta Cultural Center), a former Franciscan Convent, offers temporary exhibitions, seminars, conferences and concerts. The Intendente Alvear Square, opposite the Cultural Center, holds large handicraft fairs every weekend. Another of the traditional sights of La Recoleta is the circular building of the Palais de Glace, that was originally an ice-skating rink, and that during the '20s turned into an aristocratic place to listen to and dance tango. Nowadays, it is used to house temporary exhibitions. The Fine Arts Museum situated nearby boasts a particularly rich asset including the best examples of Argentine plastic art and sculpture as well as important pieces of universal art such as masterpieces by El Greco, Rubens, Goya, Van Gogh and other artists.

Palermo is the large green area of the city. The 3 de Febrero Park, which covers an area of 400 hectares, was inaugurated in 1875 to preserve the city from pollution. The park is intensely visited by the locals. On Figueroa Alcorta Avenue, stands the Latin American Art Museum, which exhibits an important collection of masterpieces done by Latin American painting artists such as Antonio Berni, Pettoruti, Frida Kahlo, and Diego Rivera. Within the park stands the Planetarium Galileo Galilei building that seems an image of Saturn and where motion space shows are offered. It is possible to stroll around the parks on the typical mateos (carriages drawn by horses). Not far from there you find the Jardín Japonés(Japanese Garden) and the Museo de Motivos Argentinos José Hernández (Museum of Argentine Art José Hernandez), where several archaeological pieces, lithography works and oil paintings are exhibited, as well as elements belonging to the gaucho tradition such as musical instruments, imagery and silverware. Conferences, theater plays, movies and concerts are often held in this museum.

Nearby, you find the Argentine Polo Field. This is the stage of numerous Argentine victories in polo. It has three playing fields where the most important polo matches with the best championship players are held. The first official polo match in Argentina took place at the Estancia Villanueva in Buenos Aires on August 30th, 1875. The passion for this sport soon took hold of the city where, according to the experts, the field is as smooth as a chessboard and the horses have incredible conditions for training and fighting. The search for improvement in this sport led to the creation of a different breed of horses in Argentina, the product of the cross of the Creole horse with pedigree animals. This gave birth to the world famous 'petiso' (pony) for polo.

There are many polo clinics in Argentina with the aim of teaching and improving the different techniques of this sport. Argentine polo is the only one in the world that has teams with a handicap of 40 strokes, which has turned it into an important tourist attraction for those who visit the country and who will have the opportunity to watch the best teams in the world play and, eventually, to learn how to play polo.

In Palermo neighborhood also stands the fairgrounds called La Rural, where the exhibition of Agriculture, Livestock and Industry is held once a year as well as other important international events; the Zoo; the Botanic Garden; the Argentine Hippodrome, and two entertainment and restaurant areas: Paseo de la Infanta and Arcos del Sol.

The Buenos Aires Golf Club, also located nearby, opened at the beginning of the XX century, and is the most important golf course in the city. Golf is very important in Argentina, where the topography and the extension of the country have created the ideal conditions for practicing this sport. There are dozens of golf courses praised by the most prestigious players that admire their design and the quality of the grass.

A few kilometers north, the area known as Northern Riverside stretches along Rafael Obligado Avenue, skirting the Río de la Plata riverbanks. The domestic Jorge Newbery Airport, is located on this avenue and houses the Aeronautic Museum, an open-air museum whose assets are related to the history of aviation, where visitors can get into the cabins of the old planes. On the riverbank side of the avenue, there is a wharf on which the Fishermen's Club is situated. This is the oldest and best recognized fishing club in Argentina.

Along this avenue there are also several entertainment centers. Going on northbound there is a theme park called Tierra Santa, the first religious theme park in the world, which offers an overview of Jesus' life and work. At the end of the avenue there are some traditional "parrillas" (steakhouses) and some elegant restaurants as well.

The favorite shelter for locals during weekends is Paraná River Delta and its islands, formed in the area where this river flows into the Río de la Plata, in the district called Tigre. It is located only 30 km north from Buenos Aires.

To arrive in this area from Buenos Aires, you will drive through the most elegant suburban districts of San Isidro, located a few kilometers before Tigre, with most of its mansions belong to traditional aristocratic families. The colonial constructions are on the coastal area surrounded by thick vegetation and magnificent river views. The San Isidro Hippodrome has a grass racetrack and a beautiful garden. A very interesting alternative to visit this area is the Tren de la Costa (Riverside Train). It departs from Maipú Station opposite the Presidential Residence in Olivos and arrives in Tigre, bordering the river. This railway has some attractive stations that combine picturesque constructions with shops, cinemas and modern bars and restaurants.

In Tigre there are numerous rowing clubs, museums, cultural centers and the Fruit Market, held during the weekends, which offers a large variety of local products. The Parque de la Costa(Riverside Park) is a modern funfair that offers open-air shows, simulators, electronic, mechanical and interactive games, as well as some good restaurants. The Casino stands nearby.

Tigre is the departure point towards the islands of the Paraná River Delta with a unique landscape of subtropical forests, rivers and streams. The constructions vary from large stone houses, English cottages and Italian villas to small wooden houses built on pillars, typical constructions of the islands. It is possible to take boat rides, to practice nautical sports, or to spend the day in one of its typical recreos (day resorts).

A three-hour boat journey from Tigre, leads to Martin Garcia Island, the largest of the Delta islands. It used to be a fortress, was then site of navy battles during the Independence Battles, and was also prison for three Argentine presidents: Hipólito Yrigoyen, Juan D. Perón and Arturo Frondizi, overthrown by subsequent military coups that marked the Argentine history of the XX century. It is a natural reserve that protects a wide variety of flora and fauna.

The city of Colonia del Sacramento, situated on the other side of the river, on the Uruguayan coast, was declared Mankind Historic Heritage of the World by UNESCO. It was founded in 1680 during the colonial times as a Spanish military bastion to deter Portuguese invasions in the area. At the bay, the mostly untouched old town shows some colonial houses, churches, museums, a section of the fortress wall ruins, and narrow cobblestone streets. Very near you reach the Yatch Port and the New City. Catamarans to visit Colonia depart from Puerto Madero. It is possible to go there for the day or to spend a few nights in the city.

Some 177 km (110 miles) away Montevideo, the capital city of Uruguay, is located, with a 22 km (14 miles) coast on the Río de Plata riverside. The Old City, where the Citadel Gate and the old wall ruins are located, spreads over a peninsula surrounded by the sea, near the Metropolitan Port. Through the Citadel Gate, it is possible to get to the New City, where the Independence Square is located, the biggest one in the city. Going on along the coast we find the Open City, where shopping malls, beaches and the Carrasco Residential Area are located. It is also possible to go there for the day or two, departing by boat from Puerto Madero, in Buenos Aires, or by plane from the domestic airport.