It is the second most important
city in Argentina. It was founded in 1573, before Buenos Aires,
by an expedition coming from the north, because of its strategic
location in the crossroad of the routes that lead from Chile and
the Alto Peru (Bolivia at present) to the port of Buenos Aires;
thus becoming the most important city during the colonial period.
Visiting Córdoba you discover the contrast that exists between
modern buildings and its well-preserved historic wealth. Beautiful
parks, historic sites, museums must be admired as well as its huge
architectural heritage, such as: the Cathedral and the Cabildo
both started to be built in the XVII century but finally finished
by the XIX century; Bishop Mercadillo's Oratory,
built at the beginning of the XVIII century; the Iglesia
de Santa Teresa y Convento de las Carmelitas (Church and
Convent of the Carmelite Nuns, also called Las Teresas), that at
present houses the Religious Art Museum; and the
Jesuit Block constituted by: the Monserrat School
dating back to 1685, the Jesus Society Church, the oldest one in
the country, which dated back to 1640, the Domestic Chapel and the
University, created in 1613 which was one of the first ones in the
continent. Thanks to the huge early educative labor of the Jesuit
priests, the city was called "La Docta" (meaning 'the
cultivated one') and has been always characterized by its permanent
progressive and at the same time traditional spirit.
It is very easy for travelers to move around in
the city due to the rectangular grid of the streets which is typical
of the Spanish settlements. The best way to visit the historic center
is on foot, since many of its streets are pedestrian ones. There
are also many green spaces such as San Martín Square, the
Independence Square, Sarmiento Park, the Paseo de las Artes, situated
over La Cañada, a tree-lined narrow channel that crosses
the city, San Martín and Las Heras parks, over the Suquía
river, which runs also within the city. Córdoba also offers
a considerable array of museums such as the Provincial Historic
Museum, Sobremonte's household, the Art Museum, located in the residential
neighborhood of Cerro de Las Rosas, near the Olympic
Stadium and next to the Córdoba Fairground.
Leaving the city northbound along National Route
9 it is possible to reach several Jesuit Estancias,
traveling the so-called Road of the Jesuit Estancias.
In this area, the Jesuits developed one of the most important productive
centers of agriculture and cattle-raising of Latin America; a series
of ranches that in the year 2000 have been declared Mankind's Cultural
Heritage by UNESCO. They established their large estancias
(ranches) with the purpose of providing all the necessary supplies
to their educative organization in the city. After the ejection
of the Jesuit Order in 1767, the properties were left under the
control of the State and were adapted to different uses; nowadays
they have all turned into relics of great historic value.
A perfect example of these ranches is Estancia
de Caroya, which was the first acquired by the Jesuit priests
in 1616 and was later used as a vacation residence for the interns
of the Monserrat School. Later on, it housed the first white weapon
factory for the Northern Army during the wars of the national independence
and eventually served as residence to the first Italian immigrants
(from Friuli) that founded nearby the town of Colonia Caroya.
It is an outstanding example of rural residential architecture.
Nowadays there is a Visitor's Center and a thematic museum, which
can be visited with local guides.
Nearby, in the village of Jesus María sits
the Estancia de Jesus María, the second
productive complex founded in 1618. It was characterized by its
wine production, which achieved a high level of development and
quality. The church, the residence, the cellar and some of the tools
used in this production can be seen. The whole complex constitutes
at present the National Jesuit Museum.
A dirt road, leads to the Posta de Sinsacate,
located a few kilometers northward. The building was the cart halt
for the wagons traveling from the Alto Perú to Córdoba
or Buenos Aires. In the vicinity, stands the Estancia Santa
Catalina, founded in 1622. Its church, with an imposing
facade, two towers and curved porch is one of the best examples
of the so-called "colonial Baroque style", which is a
local adaptation of the center-European Baroque architecture. The
estancia was the largest agriculture production center of the whole
system with thousands of bovine and sheep cattle heads, and mules.
It was also devoted to the production of apparels, iron-works and
carpentry. Additionally, it had also a batan, two windmills and
a great tajamar (man-made lake) fed by the underground
water nourishment that came from Ongamira, up in the Sierras
Chicas, several kilometers away.
It is also interesting to reach Ascochinga,
with its important golf course and the Estancia La Paz,
which used to belong to General Julio A. Roca, one of the important
characters in Argentine history. On the way back to Córdoba,
along the route of the Sierras Chicas, some attractive villages
are crossed, such as Salsipuedes, with its nearby
church, the Iglesia de Candonga, dating back to
the XVIII century, which was originally a part of another now nonexistent
Jesuit ranch. The way up to the church is a tortuous dirt road hard
to travel but the place deserves the effort. The route goes then
through Río Ceballos and finally Villa
Allende, where there is another important golf course.
Towards the northwest of Córdoba, the the
Punilla Valley stretches in a North-South direction.
The height of its hills vary from 600 (1,990 feet) to 1,980 meters
(6,594 feet) above see level in the Uritorco hill, its highest altitude.
The area offers a varied tourist infrastructure of different categories.
One of the most attractive tourist centers frequented by the Argentineans
is the city of Villa Carlos Paz, located on the
margins of San Roque Lake, formed by the dam of
the same name. Nautical sports are available as well as a large
array of entertainment activities and an intense nightlife. Other
important cities along the Punilla Valley are: Cosquín,
National Capital of the Folklore; La Falda, a quiet
tourist center; La Cumbre, a beautiful village
with sophisticated old residences and one of the best golf courses
in the country; Los Cocos, with its smart households;
and finally, Capilla del Monte, at the foot of
the Uritorco Hill, which might be said to have a certain aspect
similar to a typical town of La Puna, something that is breath of
fresh air, maybe.
In the old times, the surrounding sierras were
occupied by the Comechingones, local aborigines.
They lived in stone huts, were devoted to agriculture, hunting and
fishing, and produced pottery and knitted articles. In all cities
beautiful handicrafts can be acquired, especially in the Road
of the Craftsmen, near La Cumbre.
In the Calamuchita Valley, towards
the southwest of the province, the Jesuit presence appears once
again, in the city of Alta Gracia, around the Jesuit
Estancia of Alta Gracia, which still preserves untouched
its architectural heritage that dates back to the XVII century.
The ranch has also historic relevance because it was residence of
the former Viceroy Santiago de Liniers during the colonial times
and was also prison for the English soldiers taken as war hostages
after the British Invasions to the Rio de la Plata Viceroyalty at
the beginning of the XIX century. It is possible to visit its XVIII
century church, and the residence which exhibits objects belonging
to its different stages of the household. It is particularly interesting
to see the blacksmith's forge and the tajamar which is
an important highlight in the city.
Going on southwards, skirting the artificial lake
of Los Molinos, there is a picturesque village
called Villa General Belgrano, where lots of central-European
immigrants settled, attracted by the peacefulness and beauty of
the region, building an Alpine-style village. Its popular feast
have also a strong European flavor, such as the Feast of
the Viennese Patisserie, the Feast of the Alpine
Chocolate and particularly the Oktoberfest
, during which all the accommodation in the city is always fully
booked.
Another enchanting village that can be visited
from Villa General Belgrano is La Cumbrecita, a
paradisiacal tiny town situated on the hill of the same name, at
a height of 1,450 meters (4,828.50 feet) above sea level, in the
middle of dense forest of pines and other local species. It is also
a typically central-European village, which has the enormous pride
of having been declared, in 1996, the first pedestrian town of the
country. Cars must be parked at the entrance of the town and the
visit must be done on foot. Some other important towns along the
valley are Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, Villa
del Dique and some smaller towns, till reaching the huge
artificial lake of Embalse Río Tercero with
its nuclear power plant.
To arrive in the Traslasierra Valley visitors have
to cross the Sierras Grandes(High Sierras), through
the tortuous road known as Road of the High Peaks
whose maximum height reaches up to 2,400 meters (7,992 feet). Half
way between Córdoba and Mina Clavero, the traveler can find
the Parque Nacional Quedrada del Condorito(Condor's
Ravine National Park), which has been created in order to protect
the characteristic fauna and morphology of the area, and to preserve
the Andean condor, an endangered species that chooses this place
as its abode. The park is visited on foot in a walk that takes several
hours.
Back along the main route (the most important
vial work in the province), it is possible to observe its fascinating
scenery of deep ravines, abysses and a few cascades. Eventually
one reaches the small villages of Mina Clavero
and Cura Brochero, two typical summer vacation
spots where the rivers have waters that are considered to have curative
properties due to its mineral contents.
Besides the practice of nautical sports that the
numerous rivers and artificial lakes of the region allow, both Calamuchita
and Punilla Valleys are quite appropriate places
to practice some adventure activities: particularly trekking, horseback
riding, climbing (level: moderate to difficult), rappel, paragliding
and other extreme sports. The ascent to Mount Champaquí,
starting at the village of Yacanto, makes an exciting challenge
for those who prefer more demanding climbing alternatives.
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