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San Martin de los Andes

introduction | san martin | bariloche | esquel

This charming village, located on the Lake Lacar shore, is the head of the Lanín National Park, which gathers twenty four glacial lakes. The city, with 25,000 inhabitants, receives several flights a week from Buenos Aires. It has good hotel infrastructure, many fine restaurants, tea houses, and several travel agencies that offer excursions in the surrounding areas, making it possible to reach spots which seem to be the natural habitat for peacefulness and beauty.

The city is a quiet village in perfect harmony with nature, taking care in not to be the last ones to do it so as future generations may enjoy the same peace, the same bird singing, the same fluttering of the ducks over the lake waters, the same woods that have lived for thousands of years and that should live on long in the future. The calm and attractive beach called Playa Catritre, situated near downtown on the northeastern shore of the lake, is the perfect place for nautical sports.

The Mirador Cerro Bandurrias (Stork Hill Lookout), situated nearby is easily accessible. A soft trekking leads to its summit, from where the panoramic view of the lake to the west and the city to the east is amazing. Further on, skirting the lake, a bend of the road leads to Quila Quina, a residential village where a few old aborigine huts, belonging to the Mapuche Curruhuinca group, can be observed. It is also possible to visit the Cascada Arroyo Grande (Large Creek Cascade), a natural carbonated water spring, as well as to admire some rupestrian paintings.

Very near downtown, there is a pier from where most boat-rides in the lake depart. There is a boat trip reaching Quila Quina, and another one going to Hua Hum, quite close to the Chilean border, where rafting is available. However, the most important local attraction, especially during winter, is the ski resort of Mount Chapelco (2,441 meters/8,130 feet) situated only 20 minutes away from the city. It has more than 30 ski tracks, 10 ski lifts and a cable-car that reaches a coffee-shop that offers an excellent panoramic view of the Andean peaks and Lanín Volcano. The resort is also attractive during summer as a center for alternative tourism: activities such as climbing, horseback riding, archery, mountain bike, and hikes are available.

Leaving the city northwards, you reach Lake Lolog, an ideal setting for sport fishing and big game hunting. The main prey are the wild boar and the red deer. Autumn is the hunting season and it is necessary to get hunting rights (information is available at the National Park Administration in San Martín de los Andes). From here, it is possible to visit Lakes Curruhué Chico and Curruhué Grande, from where an attractive path crosses a small araucaria ('monkey puzzle') forest to Laguna Verde, a green-water lagoon surrounded by the unusual scenery created by a volcanic cinder-heaps produced by Mount Huanquihue near Lake Epulafquen. Within short distance, the Lahuen-co Hot Springs are accessible in the middle of a small marshy glacial valley.

Back along the main road and further north, the small village of Junín de los Andes appears in the middle of an attractive valley. It is located only 40 km (25 miles) away from San Martín de los Andes, by the Chimehuín River. It is a real paradise for fly-casters from around the world. Fly-casting fans date here every year, from mid-November to mid-April, to visit the surrounding lakes, rivers and creeks and fish for assorted trout species, such as: rainbow, brown, brook and fontinalis. It is also necessary to get a fishing license, granted by the National Park Administration.The town provides several good restaurants and a few hotels, but expert fishers prefer the lodges located near the fishing areas.

Further north, the imposing snowed peak of the basalt cone-shaped Lanín Volcano dominates the landscape from its 3,776 meters (12,570 feet) above sea level. At the volcano foothill stands Lake Huechulafquen. At the western end of the lake, there is a natural narrow passage called La Union that links it to Lake Paimún. On the lakeside there is a nice fishing lodge, framed by the most charming virgin nature.

There are three different ways from San Martín de los Andes to Bariloche, the easiest one is leaving the city along Route 234 to detour shortly after towards the east, at Route 63 towards Lake Meliquina, Córdoba Pass and Confluencia, then the road follows along National Route 237, completely paved, up to Bariloche.

The second alternative, partially paved, is to leave the city along National Route 234, detouring 77 km (48 miles) afterwards, at a place called El Portezuelo, to take Provincial Route 65 which skirting Lake Traful leads to Villa Traful. This is a small town plunged in the most pure nature, where the magnificence of the scenery, the crystal clear waters of Lake Traful, the perfumes of its plants and bushes and the abundant native flora will keep all your senses well engaged. Nearby, the Traful Lookout is located. It is a natural belvedere situated at a height of 70 meters (233 feet) over the cliff that offers a wondrous panoramic view of the lake.Skirting the lake this secondary route reaches the main route, National Route 237 at the place called Confluence, from where it leads finally to Bariloche, passing by Valle Encantado (Enchanted Valley). It is a section of the river valley where wind erosion has carved a series of particular formations in the rocks that reminds us of an Amphitheater or Roman Circus, a God's finger, a couple of Siamese twin brothers and a sentry.

The third alternative is the longest and most tortuous of them all, but it is also the most attractive one. It is the so-called Seven Lake Road (National Route 234) which is usually closed in winter time, but that in summer receives constant visits both from Bariloche and San Martín de los Andes, in an effort to catch a few unforgettable glimpses of these charming panoramas. Of course, the road is named as it is after seven lakes that spread along the route: lakes Hermoso, Machónico, Escondido, Falkner, Villarino, Espejo and Correntoso. The road ends at the peaceful Villa la Angostura. This is a heavenly small town that spreads over the Nahuel Huapi Lake northern coast, from where the route goes on paved up to Bariloche.

Villa la Angostura is an idyllic town with a small shopping area and several inns and lodges offering very good facilities, scattered mostly on the lake shores. A pier located nearby is the departing point for lake excursions that lead to the Parque Nacional Bosque de Arrayanes (Myrtle Wood National Park), located in the Quetrihué Peninsula, though most people who visit the place do it from Bariloche. However, it is also possible to arrive there biking or hiking the 12 kilometers (7 miles) that separate it from the village.

Leaving Villa la Angostura westbound, along the lake coast, Route 231 leads to Puyehue Pass and the Chilean Lake District. In the way there, there is a detour to Cerro Bayo ski resort. Its target is mostly for local demand, though it attracts every winter many people who prefer to avoid the crowds that gather in the major centers. Before reaching the basis, there is a small walking path to Bonito River Cascade whose white veil contrasts with the deep green of the surrounding woods.

Going on westwards along Route 231, a bridge over the Correntoso Lake leads to Lake Espejo, from where there are only 32 kilometers (20 miles) left to the international border. Once you have gone through the migration formalities at the border, the route goes on also paved into Chile. The first attraction is the Puyehue Hot Spring Resort; and then the road continues to Osorno, Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas.

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