Under
the Patagonian sky, between Cape Horn and the Magellan
Strait, an extended archipelago emerges. The largest island
is Tierra del Fuego, a land of legends that lit
the popular imagination in the era of the conquerors; it attracted
gold chasers, adventurers, pirates, missionaries and scientists.
The widespread idea of Tierra del Fuego as a barren and icy region,
is far from reality. This is a lively and fertile land full of flowers,
woods and birds. This is a paradise of eternally snowed peaks, majestic
millenary glaciers, "flag trees" and a great deal of marine
fauna.
At the southern end of the American Continent,
the Andean Cordillera plunges into the ocean producing a large archipelago
of islands and rock keys, where there is a variety of channels,
fiords and bays, glaciers, lakes and peat bogs, with lush forests
and important fauna reserves. Here, the so resistant Nothophagus
species of trees impose their almost exclusive presence. Likens,
ferns and mosses appear all over, particularly the sphagnum moss
that form huge peat bogs.
Ushuaia, capital city of the Argentine Tierra
del Fuego province, is known as the southernmost city in the world,
is 3,040 km (1,900 miles) from Buenos Aires. It is located in the
southern end, facing the Beagle Channel, and surrounded by the Martial
Mounts Range. In fact, the city stretches over its slopes,
framed by a one-of-a-kind scenery of mountains, ocean, glaciers,
lakes and woods. Southwards from the coast, the view of the Ushuaia
Bay and the Beagle Channel, and the Chilean islands
of Navarino and Hoste is superb. The End of the World Museum
exhibits an important patrimony related to the history of the city
and its primitive inhabitants.
Near downtown, the Ushuaia Maritime Museum
occupies the building belonging to the former maximum security
presidium of Ushuaia called Presidio y Cárcel de
Reincidentes. Very dangerous convicts and well known political
prisoners made this prison famous. It worked as a prison until 1947,
and one of its buildings is still kept in its original conditions,
relating the history of this prison that played an important role
in the history of the city, since all its staff lived therein and
even the prisoners contributed with their work to its development.
The Admiral's Berisso Navy Base operates here.
Only 12 km (7 miles) west from Ushuaia the access
to the Tierra del Fuego National Park is reached.
The park is a fantastic natural space where numerous flora and fauna
species live together in harmony. The park offers a different landscape
during each season of the year; the flowers and the varied bird
species are the main attraction in the summer. About 500 flower
species, distributed from the sea level to a height of 700 meters
(2,300 feet) have been classified. Thirty percent of the total surface
of the park is occupied by the Andean-Patagonian
or Sub-Antarctic Woods with trees belonging to
the family of the Nothophagus, such as: ñires (low deciduous
beach tree), coihues or guindos (evergreen beach tree) and the most
important: lengas (high deciduous beach tree).
Due to the diversity of climates and vegetation
of this territory, over 200 bird species have been registered including
the majestic Condor, known as the 'King of the Andes'. In the woods,
two mammalian species stand out : the rabbit and the beaver (both
species exotic to the local environment). The latter is the one
that has caused the greatest impact on the environment, specially
on the hydraulic system, building dams that change the course of
the waters and flood extended sections of the woods.
The park is also an excellent place for adventure
tours. One choice is a one-day hike focused on flora and fauna understanding,
visiting beaver dams and climbing up to a panoramic view point that
allows to get a great view covering the area from Lake Roca to Lapataia
Bay. A more demanding choice is a three-day trekking to the Laguna
del Caminante ('Walker's Lagoon'), whose extraordinary beauty framed
by one of the most beautiful landscapes of Tierra del Fuego. It
is rarely visited in spite of being so close to the city because
of its difficult access.
On the way to the park, the road goes through the
Estancia Río Pipo where the Restaurant Tolkeyén
offers the possibility of tasting the delicious Patagonian lamb
barbecue, one of the typical dishes of the regional cuisine, along
with the king-crab.
Nearby, the Central Station stands
close to Pipo River. This is the departing point of the already
famous Southern Fuegian Railway, renown as the Train of
the End of the World. It is a small 120-seat train that
enters the National Park stopping at different interesting sites.
The train follows the old terreplein of the small train that worked
until 1947 carrying prisoners from the Ushuaia Presidium to the
forests in search of wood for heating. Traces of this destructive
activity are still notorious in these woods.The train goes through
Pipo River across the Burnt Bridge and makes its
first stop at Cascada de la Macarena(Macarena's
Cascade). Here, you can see a reconstruction of an aboriginal Yamana
or Selknam settlement, called Río Ajej.The
final section of the journey runs along the Cañadón
del Toro (Bull's Canyon), to reach finally the end of the
railways.
It is possible to then choose between continuing
the excursion to the National Park or to return to Central Station.
The excursion goes on to Lapataia Bay, the southernmost
tip of Argentina, on the coasts of Beagle Channel, and the final
end of National Route 3, at 3,300 km (2,063 miles) from Buenos Aires.
It is most interesting to observe there the concheros,
invaluable archaeological sites which have produced incredible information
about the customs of the primitive local inhabitants, their habits
and their every day life. Other interesting places within the National
Park are Lake Roca and its nearby tea-house, Pipo
River Cascade and Ensenada Bay, from where it is possible to embark
into a little boat towards Isla Redonda (Round-shaped
Island), an intangible zone of the park, where an interesting flora
interpretation path hasbeen outlined and where the southernmost
post office in Argentina is located.
Sailing the waters of Beagle Channel is a "must",
the gateway to the waters of the "end of the world". Different
vessels set sail from the "Tourist Pier", near downtown.
Sailing across Ushuaia Bay, a charming view of the city and the
surrounding mountains is admired, till reaching Paso Chico (Narrow
Pass), which indicates the entrance to the mythical Beagle Channel,
which still preserves its halo of mystery and ancient memories of
old shipwrecks. However, it is the perfect place to observe marine
fauna in its natural environment. The boat reaches the Birds' Island,
close to Bridges Archipelago, where, as guardians over the rocks,
the Imperial and Magellan cormorants deceive visitors with their
appearance of penguins, living along with a wide variety of marine
fauna formed by albatrosses, petrels, seagulls and ducks.
Within short distance, the Sea Lions' Island,
emerges packed with both one-haired and tow-haired sea lions that
seem to be sunbathing. Nearby, the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse,
only witness to the wreckage of the German ship Monte Cervantes,
back in 1930, stands on the island of the same name. Further on,
the Martillo Island, known as Penguins' Island,
boasts an important rookery of Magellan penguins.
Just in front of it, Estancia Harberton
is located on the homonymous bay, facing the crystal clear waters
of the channel. The estancia may also be reached overland from Ushuaia.
It belongs to the Bridges family and it is the oldest construction
of the Island with elements brought directly from England in the
XIX century. From Harberton Bay, it is possible to glimpse the Chilean
Hoste Island, chosen by Jules Verne as the setting for
an improbable republic in one of his novels.
Further east from the estancia, which is probably
the most unexplored section of the island, stretches a 5,000 km2
(1,930 sq miles) triangle inhabited only by guanacos, foxes, geese
and varied marine fauna, including penguins, sea lions, and occasionally,
even some whales. It is called Península Mitre.
It was a mythical land for the Onas, primitive inhabitants of the
land and also the stage of the first encounter of these cultures
with white men. Hundreds of vessels shipwrecked near its coasts,
and the relics of some of them still remain laid on the beaches
as well as devices that belonged to the old gold searchers that
lucklessly wandered in the region; speechless witnesses of the useless
attempts of "civilized men" to tame this hostile land.
A ten-day horse riding expedition along the coast to the eastern
extreme of the island is a superb choice for those in search of
challenging adventures.
The western portion of Tierra del Fuego Island,
in Chilean territory, stretches in an enormous peninsula where the
highest peaks of the Insular Andes soar up. Massifs up to 2,000
meter-high (6,660 feet) seem to emerge out of the ocean such as
the Cordillera Darwin, a legendary territory largely
covered by a massive ice layer, just a small example, of what was
the last glacier period. The deep fjords characteristic of its coastal
line are another fantastic trace left by the erosive action of the
glaciers. Glaciers that slide unnoticed from the Ice Field towards
those fjords, finally breaking off in hundreds of incredibly bluish
or greenish icebergs. The iced peaks of Cordillera Darwin, most
of them unconquered, are always amazing for the few visitors that
have the rare privilege of admiring them. A cruise sailing from
Punta Arenas to Ushuaia (or vice versa) makes it possible to get
in touch with this untouched beauty. Another way is joining one
of the few trekking and climbing expeditions explorations organized
in this area.
Leaving Ushuaia northbound, bordering the river
that descends from Mount Olivia, symbol of the
city, the road goes through the Andes. The landscape is featured
by a series of beautiful valleys and mountain ranges such as the
Carbajal Valley and the Alvear Range that extend up to the Garibaldi
Pass (430 meters/1,430 feet above sea level). Many winter
sport resorts have taken advantage of these most proper terrain
for the practice of different activities such us cross-country ski,
mainly, and also Alpine ski, dog sled, snow cat and hiking with
racquet snowshoes. Some of them are: Cerro Castor, Tierra Mayor,
Las Cotorras, Valle de los Huskies and Haruwen.From Paso Garibaldi,
a great view of the Lake Escondido (Hidden Lake)
in the first term, and Lake Fagnano as a backdrop,
is obtained. Down, by the lake shore, the charming Hostería
Petrel is settled.
Going on northbound, towards Lake Fagnano,
along the main route, it is possible to observe several sawmills,
most of which are nowadays closed, even if they were prosperous
in the past. Traveling just a few miles away from the main road,
you enter a harsh and barren land, with quite rare traces of human
presence, without paved roads or human settlements. The ideal setting
for those who love nature, adventure and solitude. Notwithstanding
wandering in such a terrain poses some obstacles, such us overcoming
fallen trees, walking over beaver dams, crossing dense woods, avoiding
peat bogs and crossing rivers though improvised trunk bridges or,
sometimes, fording barefoot through the cold water. The difficulties
involved in the task are a lot, but they precisely bring along its
main attractiveness: to feel an intimate contact with pristine nature.
One of the best trekking alternatives available,
is to cross the Beban's Pass. Beban was an old
inhabitant of the island who, around 1920, while he was chasing
some prisoners escaped from the presidium, reached the pass for
the first time, discovering the mirror of water that the local aborigines
used to call Kami. The area still preserves the same mystery and
amazing beauty that Beban found in the old times. Lake Kami is the
one known nowadays as Lake Fagnano. The lake, that occupies an important
geological fault, parallel to the one that formed the Beagle Channel,
is the largest one in the island (110 km/69 miles long and 5 to
8 km/3 to 5 miles wide), and flows into the Pacific Ocean.
Lake Fagnano appears in the middle of a bleak and
mostly inhabited area, with the only exception of Tolhuin,
town situated in the eastern head of the lake, just in the "Heart
of the Island", as the area has come to be called. And the
name itself is an Ona aboriginal word meaning "heart-shaped".
The town is starting point of many different alternative tourism
excursions. North from Lake Fagnano, an area of transition between
the Andean and the steppe environment appears, the area where Lake
Yehuín and Lake Chepelmut are situated.
Their turquoise waters flowing southwards, across a system of connected
mountain valleys, lead to Lake Fagnano. Canoeing along this streams
and connected lakes, facing a myriad of obstacles becomes a unique
experience that allows a close contact with nature.
By then, all traces of the Andean-Patagonian woods
have been left behind. Landscape is definitively dominated by the
characteristic steppe vegetation. The city of Río
Grande is located in this area. It is mainly dedicated
to oil exploitation but there are also some industries, mostly electronic
and textile companies, that are what remains of the Law of Industrial
Encouragement dating back to 1972. At present many of them are closed.
In the outskirts of the city, there are numerous estancias devoted
to sheep raising. Its location, by the homonymous river, makes the
city an important center of game fishing, specially for trout and
salmon. From there, National Route 3, to the north, leads to San
Sebastián, from where it is possible to cross the
border to Chile and then, across the Magellan Strait, reach the
continent. |