Puerto Madryn
is the most important tourist center of Central Patagonia. The Welsh
settlers named it after a castle that belonged to Sir Jones Parry
Madryn who made an agreement with the government in 1863 for the
settlement of colonies. Puerto Madryn is located on the coast of
Golfo Nuevo, protected by the Patagonian steppe hills at its back
and facing the intense cobalt blue of the ocean. It is 66 km (41
miles) from Trelew and 1,400 km (875 miles) from Buenos Aires.
Puerto Madryn and its outskirts offer a series
of perfect sites to get involved in the matter of marine life and
ecology. There is an interesting Oceanographic and Natural Science
Museum and the modern Ecocentro, an interactive
interpretative center that allows visitors to learn about the local
wildlife.
Additionally, Puerto Madryn is the capital of sub-aquatic
activities. The calm and transparent waters of the gulf, with an
average temperature of 17º C in summer, permit the penetration
of sunlight to a depth of 70 meters (230 feet), making it the ideal
environment for submarine exploration and photography.
Led by expert diver guides, you can visit different submarine parks.
Many local companies offer the Submarine Baptism,
which does not require any previous training.
17 km (10 miles) south of Puerto Madryn, one can
reach the Punta Loma Fauna Reserve. There, one-haired
sea lions (Otaria Flavescens) gather year-round over the
rocky headlands and dark sand beaches. These can be easily observed
from two decks suspended at a height of 15-meters (50 feet) over
the sea. The best time to visit is in January when migratory sea
lions from Punta Norte and Punta Pirámides arrive, for it
is at this time the mating season commences. Visitors are provided
a rare glimpse into the mating rituals of sea lions, an activity
full of drama and intrigue as males fight to procure as many females
as possible. 77 km (55 miles) southwards from Punta Loma, it is
possible to visit the Scientific Reserve of Punta León,
natural habitat of sea lions, sea elephants and several bird species.
While it is necessary to obtain a previous permit to visit the reserve,
the wide variety wildlife make the effort worthwhile.
North of Puerto Madryn lies the golden beach Playa
del Doradillo, a paradise during the whale season. The
great depth of the bay makes the perfect environment for mating
and provides protection from attacks. These in turn provide wonderful
opportunities for the tourist because these huge sea mammals come
incredibly close to the seashore.
Further north, the road leads to
Península Valdés. It looks almost
like an island united to the continent only by a narrow strip of
land called Carlos Ameghino Isthmus, which separates
the San José and the Nuevo gulfs. The entrance gate to the
Provincial Natural Reserve of Península
Valdés is located shortly after the isthmus. From the Birds'
Island Natural Reserve one can spot a small key located
within the San Jose Gulf, which is nowadays an intangible reserve.
It was one of the first fauna reserves in South America, created
in 1967 due to the need to protect its particularly fragile ecosystem:
a widely diverse colony of sea birds.The Interpretative
Center of the Reserve of Península Valdés
is also located in the isthmus.
One of the highlights of the peninsula is Puerto
Pirámides, situated 108 km (68 miles) away from
Puerto Madryn. Its beach, with calm transparent water, is ideal
for the practice of aquatic and sub-aquatic sports. However, its
top attraction is the whale watching boats. In order to avoid alterations
during the breeding and mating seasons, the navigation is only allowed
in the 'Golfo Nuevo'.
The whales appear on the coasts of Puerto Madryn
in May and remain in the area till early December. These are the
Southern Right Whales (Eubalaena Australis), belonging
to the suborder of cetaceans called Mysticetus. They're different
from sperm whales, killing whales and other cetaceans because they
have baleens instead of teeth. These rigid keratin plates allow
them to filter sea water in order to obtain their main food: a tiny
shrimp-like crustacean called krill. The adults reach a weight of
30 to 40 tons, eating one ton and a half of krill and plankton every
day. In December they leave the area for their feeding grounds,
though very little is known about their habits during that period
or about where they go.
The right whales come to Península Valdés
to mate, give birth and breed their calves in the protected and
calm waters of the gulfs. However, it has never been possible to
see a birth. The maximum concentration takes place between October
and November, period in which there are approximately 600 specimens
comprising both gulfs. Births take place between August and October,
with females giving birth to one calf every three to five years.
The females with reproduction capacity return to the Peninsula Valdés
area in three-year intervals in search of security and calm. However,
the adult males return to the peninsula every year.
The unchecked hunting by whaler boats led these
cetaceans close to extinction. Thanks to international agreements
to protect them and a bill approved in 1984 which declared them
a Natural Monument within Argentine waters, a slow recovery has
occurred over the last few years. The current estimates place the
world population around 7,000 specimens.
5 km (3 miles) from Puerto Pirámides there
is a fauna reserve of one-haired sea lions called Punta
Pirámides. They gather there during summer for reproduction.
Most births take place in January and the emigration from March
to April. The colony is observed from a natural lookout located
on a cliff that protects the beaches.
Further to the east, The same road leads to Punta
Delgada where a lonely lighthouse stands in the middle
of the barren land. The premises of the Punta Delgada Lighthouse
complex date back to the beginning of the XX century. It is a series
of buildings which, after a long abandonment, have been refurbished
some time ago and works now as restaurant and hotel, offering also
an interesting set of activities in the surrounding area such as:
horse-back rides and visits to various marine fauna rookeries, all
accompanied by experienced local guides. It is the only place in
the peninsula where it is permitted to see the sea elephants going
down to the beach.Very near, there is another colony which gathers
in a lonely beach called El Arenal.
Another important colony of sea elephants (or elephant
seals) lies north in the Reserve of Punta Cantor in Caleta
Valdés. Unlike the rookery in Punta Delgada, this
colony stays here all year round. Sea elephants
belong to the same family as seals. And like seals, they creep on
the beaches using only their anterior limbs. On the other hand,
Sea lions use all their four fins as legs. Sea elephants are called
elephants because of the males' characteristic trunk and huge massive
body. Adult males reach a length of 6 meters and a weight of up
to 2,500 kilos (5.500 pounds), while females are five times smaller.
They birth during springtime (September thru October), but it is
possible to see them in different spots along the coasts all year
round. Apart from sea elephants, Caleta Valdés has a very
attractive morphological structure. It is a long and narrow inlet
that stretches from north to south, parallel to the coast, making
a kind of littoral lagoon. During summer, interesting colonies of
sea birds inhabit the area.
In the northern tip of the peninsula, there is
another sea lion and sea elephant reserve called Punta Norte,
and those that are lucky enough might even see some killer whale.
The access to Estancia San Lorenzo is situated
nearby. In this place there used to operate a sea lion processing
plant, and the ruins of the premises and cauldrons can still be
seen thereby. But San Lorenzo's most important attraction is a Magellan
Penguin rookery which is the largest in the peninsula. During the
reproductive season up to 350,000 penguins can be seen on its beaches.
Unlike other rookeries, San Lorenzo has the additional charm of
being off-the-beaten-track.
170 km (106 miles)
southward from Puerto Madryn, the Punta Tombo Penguin Rookery
nestles on the beach at the feet of the coastal cliff, where the
organized life of the Magellan Penguins will provide
a wondrous show. Not many places around the world offer the chance
to visit a colony by walking within it, along clearly limited paths.
Its typical features are two stripes of black feathers around the
neck and on the chest. This species lives mainly on the sea coast
of Chubut province, forming colonies that settle in San Lorenzo,
Punta Tombo, Bahía Camarones and Cabo Dos Bahías.
Punta Tombo is the most important among them. More than 700,000
penguins arrive in September to nest and stay here until April.
With deep blue Atlantic
waters contrasting with the reddish stone formations of the cliffs,
the Cabo dos Bahías Reserve is truly a marvel
to behold. Located outside the nondescript fishing town of Camarones,
the reserve, also known as Camarones Penguin Rookery,
boasts populations of both land and marine animals. There include
Megallen Penguins and the all famous Patagonian hare. The Reserve
in some 220 km (137 miles) away from Trelew and can be reached by
going southward along Route 3 and detouring to the east after 70
km (44 miles).
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